Temperance At The Drake: A Night of Mocktails Beyond Expectations
/A few years ago, it would have been laughable to walk into a proper cocktail bar and ask for a ‘real’ non-alcoholic cocktail. Outside of mocktails made from bar mix and soda, if there were any non-alcoholic spirits on the rail it was almost always Seedlip because that was the only thing available. Although I’m based in Toronto, I know this was the same no matter what city you were in across North America.
The biggest pain point for anyone interested in cutting back or having a completely alcohol-free lifestyle is being able to go enjoy a night out and have something elevated to drink. Although things are changing, and more and more U.S. bars are stocking Lyres and Ritual, it’s been hard to see that shift here at home. I know we’ve come a long way from four years ago, but it was still such a surprise to find out The Drake Hotel in Toronto was serving up proper zero proof cocktails. It was time to check this out for myself.
A bit of history on the Drake for those new to this landmark. It’s not named after Toronto personality Drake (although I’m sure many tourists have landed there asking the front desk the same question). In its former life, it was a railroad hotel, closed down and in deep disrepair, until a Toronto investor bought it and turned it around to be one of the hottest spots to dine, drink and dance to live music in Toronto. In its twenty year history, it has reinvented itself several times to stay fresh and relevant and it’s still a top destination for locals and tourists alike. The hotel recently expanded the ground floor level, and introduced a gorgeous new modern lobby space with warm, rich decor and an ultra modern vibe.
So a girl walks into a bar….just kidding
The expansion of the ground floor made space for a lobby bar, and in perfect Drake style, it’s nothing like any lobby bar I’ve ever seen. Walking in to the hotel through the new main doors, the lobby bar is tucked away in a cozy corner like a jewel in a velvet box. The yellow leather banquette stools and warm luxe lighting is decadent and very modern deco. At first-glance it seemed a little too good to be true this cool bar space was going to serve up non-alcoholic cocktails that met my expectations. Boy was I wrong and really, I shouldn’t have been surprised. The Drake has always done forward-thinking so well.
Bartender Jeremy Day has been ensconced behind the lobby bar for a little over a month, hired by the hotel to develop a new cocktail program. He has an impressive pedigree of bartending over 18 years, many of them at upscale properties like the Drake 150 and Alo Group. It probably isn’t a fluke they hand-picked him for this role, as he also has an extensive background in temperance cocktails from years of running his own private bar and private events.
Day says he has definitely seen an increase in people coming in to the bar and asking for non-alcoholic options (as compared to pre-Covid) and developed several options for the hotel’s own Temperance menu.
“That’s why I wanted to create really top notch cocktails, like the Tempest in a Teacup on our menu is my non-alcoholic take on a Gin Fizz,” he explained, while serving it up in an actual teacup brought from his own personal collection,
Although it uses a brand of non-alcholic gin that is unpalatable to me, Day has used his magic and developed a mocktail that works with the liquid in question. Score one point for the Drake.
Knock me over with a feather
The big reveal of the night was a total shocker and the last thing I expected to happen. When I asked Day about why he thinks the hospitality industry is so slow to pick up premium zero proof spirits for their menus, he deftly avoided incriminating the hotel by pulling out a bottle of HP Spiced Rum and proudly declaring he brought his own.
Many years ago I remember reading Malcolm Gladwell’s book in which he talks about the tipping point and how things become mainstream at a certain point of social saturation. HP Juniper is a small Montreal-based company and hands down, they blow away the competition even from the U.S. with their non-alcoholic scotch, mezcal and spiced rum. Seeing it in Day’s hands behind a bar like the Drake was the moment I could see the tipping point coming for non-alcoholic drinks. We’re so close to mainstream, it’s only going to be a matter of time before the momentum is faster than a shinkansen.
The drink Day concocted with the HP Spiced Rum, pineapple, honey, lime and egg white was incredible and better than anything I could have done at home. Bonus points for the dainty vintage glassware, which Day also brings from his personal collection. Another point towards creating an experience for drinkers and non-drinkers alike.
The Italian spritz I ordered for my dinner was the only let down of the night. Martini Vibrante is an acceptable ‘campari’ dupe, even if it’s slightly waxy. When used with a premium non-alcoholic sparkling wine, it can be delightful. The menu teased me with that possibility, but unfortunately they were out of whatever non-alcoholic wine they had been using (Day was mum on which one) so club soda was the substitute. It was still a fairly good drink, and let’s be honest - I’m always grateful there are even options resembling my favoured Aperol spritz cocktails.
After a seriously divine dinner of sushi arancini and vegan bolognese, my dinner partner and I were almost too stuffed for another drink, but Day was not letting us get away without dessert. Using the HP Spiced Rum again, he served up a drink he calls Cookies N Cream (in both boozy and non-boozy versions). Aside from wanting to eat the cream with a spoon, I could have had a baker’s dozen of these beauties. It was everything I could want in a cocktail with alcohol. Life is complete.
If you want to try some of Day’s concoctions for yourself, the Lobby Bar is walk-in, no reservation needed although you can reserve a spot through the hotel. First come first serve for the eight cozy bar chairs.
I highly recommend this spot for your next night out, whether you’re a teetotaler or not. The Drake Hotel has truly mastered the art of inclusive hospitality and it’s very clear the aim is to create a space that accepts everyone. The future is bright, and it starts here!